Frequently asked questions
The 12 questions that come up most about volume and dimensions, each answered in the first sentence. If you want the figure for your own weight, the chart by weight and level has it worked out.
How many litres do I need at 154 lb (70 kg)?
Between 60 and 70 litres if you are starting out, 29 to 36 if you surf consistently and 20 to 25 if your level is high. The spread depends on the wave: the low numbers are for powerful waves and the high ones for soft waves.
What happens if my board has too much volume?
You catch waves easily and lose everything else. A board with litres to spare sits high in the water, resists being sunk to engage the rail and arrives late to the critical section. On small days you will not notice; as soon as the wave has a wall, you will.
Should I look at litres or at length?
Litres first, always. Length only tells you whether your arms fit while paddling and how the curve will sit in the wave. Two 6'0" boards can be eight litres apart, which is the distance between catching waves and not catching them.
Does the "your weight plus ten" rule work?
It works for a first softboard and nothing else. A 165 lb (75 kg) beginner needs 64 to 75 litres, so "85 litres" lands close and is easy to remember. Once you are off the foam, that rule leaves you ten or fifteen litres above what you need.
Why do two boards of the same length float differently?
The fill factor. Volume is not length times width times thickness: it is that box multiplied by how close the real shape gets to it. A fish fills 0.53 and a longboard 0.61, so with identical outside dimensions the longboard carries more litres.
How much does volume change with wave type?
Five to seven litres within the same level and weight. An intermediate of 176 lb (80 kg) needs around 40 litres for a mushy beach break and around 36 for walled waves, because in the second the wave supplies the energy the board has to supply in the first.
Softboard or epoxy to start?
Softboard for the first few weeks, no argument: it floats and it does not hurt when it runs you over. Moving to epoxy makes sense once you are catching green waves and want the board to respond, not when the foam gets boring.
From what age should I add litres?
From 40, about three litres per decade. It is not a fitness question: entry paddling depends on explosive power, and that declines with age even if you train. A 55 year old surfer needs roughly four and a half litres more than the same surfer at 40.
Does width or thickness matter more?
Width for paddling and stability, thickness for flotation and for the board not sinking under your feet. Half an inch more width gives you stability standing up; half an inch more thickness gives litres but lifts the rail and makes the board clumsier in turns.
What is a groveler?
A high-performance board with extra litres for bad days. It keeps a shortboard's outline and response but adds width, thickness and sometimes a swallow tail, so an advanced surfer can keep surfing when the wave is not delivering.
Can I use the same board in summer and winter?
You can, but the wetsuit changes the maths. A 5 mm winter suit adds flotation and some stiffness, so the same board feels one or two litres bigger. If your quiver is a single board, pick it for the waves you surf most, not for the best session of the year.
What should I tell a shaper?
Your weight, your height, how often you surf a month, the wave at your spot and your target volume. He will adjust the rest. Turning up with the volume decided and dimensions as a reference works far better than turning up with a model you saw in a clip.